There has been a very long association between dogs and death in the British Isles and beyond. Barrows and Iron Age graves have been excavated to reveal the skeletons of hounds, alongside tools, valuables and the bodies of their supposed human owners. But nowhere is this link more clear than in the folklore and legends of the Celts. In common with similar stories from other people, particularly the Germanic, Scandinavian and some Latin cultures, the sighting of an otherworldly black dog can be a harbinger of death.
In Wales, the situation is even more complex; and sometimes seeing the black dog is far preferrable than encountering a variant that is pure white. In the lonely lanes and mountain fords, the Gwyllgi and the Cwn Annwn roam; while, elsewhere, whole packs of ghostly dogs chill the air with their barks and yelps. But what does it mean for those who meet them?
Otherwordly Gwyllgi
In Welsh, 'gwyll' means 'twilight', while 'gwyllt' means 'wild'. Either word has been proposed as the source of the Gwyllgi's name. The last part 'gi' is a mutation of 'ci', which simply translates as 'dog'. The twilight dog or the wild dog, it matters little when it is spotted, because those seeing it have more pressing matters on their mind. This black dog is an omen of an impending death.
It is described as being like a mastiff in aspect, though a large one. There is no way it could be mistaken for that natural dog, as the eyes give the Gwyllgi away. There is a distinct glow to them, variously described in the legends as being like stars or burning coals. This blazing stare bores into the poor individual who is doomed to die soon, or else lose a loved one.
The traditional haunt of these hounds is country lanes. In Marchwiel, near Wrexham, Lon Bwbach Ddu (Black Spectre Lane) is believed to refer to sightings of the creature. But they weren't confined to such areas. Tour guides tell of a Gwyllgi inside the mansion of Plas Teg, near Mold. Notably it is mostly seen in the Regency Room, which is also said to be the most haunted spot of the house. Paranormal investigator, Richard Holland, heard more recent stories of these dogs, seen in Anglesey and Ruthin.
However, they are not solely in the north of the country. The first mention of Gwyllgi in a written text occurred in the southern county of Glamorgan; while their prevalence is throughout Wales.
Otherwordly Cwn Annwn
Before Christianity brought concepts of Heaven and Hell to evangelised Wales, its population believed that death took them to Annwn. This was envisaged as an island somewhere in the west, surrounded by sea. The poems of the famed Celtic bard, Taliesin, describe Annwn (or its alternative name of Caer Sidi) as a paradise place of eternal youth. There are fountains providing the best food and drink. It was a wonderful afterlife, ruled over by mythical figures, like Morgan le Fey or Gwyn ap Nudd, who blurred the line between fairies and deities.
It is from this otherworld that the Cwn Annwn get their name, with cwn being the plural of 'ci', ie dogs. These creatures tended to move in a pack, though it was possible to glimpse one on its own. They are pure white, though their ears may be edged with red. Their eyes, like the Gwyllgi, shine preternaturally. It is said that the further they are away, the louder their bark. Up close, they are almost silent. They are here to convey souls to Annwn.
The reason they were often feared more than the black dogs was due to this destination. Originally, the Cwn Annwn were welcomed, as escorts or a honour guard. Another name for them was Cwn Mamau (Hounds of the Mothers), as they were sent by the ancestors. But, as Wales was converted to Christianity, these dogs became associated with first the old ways and/or the fairies, then the devil. Annwn was linked, with a little help from priests and saints, with Hell. Whereas previously, they had sometimes been led by Mallt-y-Nos or Gwyn ap Nudd, both entities linked with the fairy realms, they were now the Hunting Dogs of Satan. A sighting of them meant that Heaven was denied to the hapless person about to die.
Jane Pugh collected a story about the Cwn Annwn being seen widely throughout Morfa, Port Talbot, in 1890, shortly before that village suffered a mining disaster. 250 men were trapped with a final death toll of 87.
The Ghostly Pack of Wepre
Apparently unrelated to either the Gwyllgi or Cwn Annwn are a pack of former family pets, which have been seen on several occasions in the grounds of Wepre Park, Connah's Quay. The park was originally in the grounds of Wepre Hall, wherein the Freme family established a pet cemetery for generations of their hounds.
Over the years, local people have sometimes reported the strange behaviour of their own, living dogs, during walks in that park. Typically, their pet will suddenly cower back, with its ears back and its fur on end; then it will pull its owner anxiously back to the main gate, just wanting to leave right now. For some dog-walkers, the incident is a little more hair-rising. They will hear the barking of a large pack of hounds, then they will see them. The dogs are pure white and arrive in all breeds and sizes, from large hunting dogs through to tiny lap dogs. They are the spectral family pets out for one last run.
Sources:
- BBC Wales: Dogs of Darkness
- JA Brookes, Ghosts and Legends of Wales. (Jarrold Publishing, 1991)
- J Pugh, Welsh Ghostly Encounters (Gwasg Carreg Gwalch, 1990)
- R Holland, Wales of the Unexpected. (Gwasg Carreg Gwalch, 2005)
- WY Evans Wentz, The Fairy Faith in Celtic Countries. (Billings & Sons Ltd, 1981)
Jo Harrington - Jo has a BA (Hons) in History and Philosophy and a MA in History. She has a book published on the history of Wicca.
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