The Battle of Shrewsbury was fought in 1403, between the forces of Henry IV and Henry Percy (aka Harry Hotspur). It was fundamentally a fight for possession of the English crown, though several other factors led to the battle occurring. Hotspur was killed, with Henry IV securing the throne for the House of Plantagenet.
Then, as now, the site, at Battlefield in Shrewsbury, is farmland. The Battlefield 1403 Heritage Trail is a self-guided walk through defined routes around working fields. The diverse hedgerows make this a great trail for wildlife enthusiasts; perhaps even more so than for historians, for whom prior knowledge of the events of 1403 would be a benefit. Entrance and carparking is free, with the latter closing at 9pm. The pathways are suitable for wheelchair access.
Not Stepping Back in Time on Shrewsbury's Battlefield 1403 Heritage Trail.
Once in the carpark, at the start of the Heritage Trail, the dual carriageway and Battlefield Enterprise Park are hidden behind rows of trees. Before us is a scene of rural beauty. Staring out across it, it is almost easy to believe that Henry IV once stood here gazing upon such a view.
Almost.
The huge electrical pylon, in the middle of the first field, spoils the effect a bit; as do the cable wires crackling overhead. The farming landscape today owes more to the Enclosure Act, introduced way after Henry's time, than the open ridge and furrow system of his day. Of course, our view is also missing something that would have greatly focused the king's attention - a massive army of rebels, amassed upon the ridge, intent upon taking his crown.
How the Hotspur was Defeated (Again) at the Battlefield.
The first of four information boards was at the entrance. It directs visitors onto the Viewing Mound, just through the gate. It includes a map highlighting the two possible routes through the battlefield. The Hotspur Route takes in the entire circumference of the 100 hectares, upon which the battle was fought. It involves gentle inclines and takes an estimated hour and a quarter to complete.The Royal Route cuts straight through the middle. This is entirely flat and it can be walked in half the time of the longer alternative.
It all seemed simple enough, through the gate and up onto the mound for an overview, then turn left for Hotspur or right for Henry IV. However, the reality presented several tracks, snaking around and away from the mound. None of them had any further signs indicating which route they followed and all led to the left. Having already opted for the Hotspur Route, this was of little concern. Unfortunately, it transpired that the left-hand route was the shorter, Royalist one.
Inadequate Signage Fails the Historic Site of the Battle of Shrewsbury.
The second information stand overlooked the battlefield from the top of the mound. It provided a brief history of the battle, alongside panoramic and satellite photos of the whole battlefield. These were annotated with places of interest. It would have been entirely satisfactory, but for two small details. None of the places were mentioned in the basic details given in the history. Additional historical knowledge would be required to understand why, for example, St Magdalene's Church might hold some relevance. Secondly, there are trees planted on the mound, which obscure the view between the photographs and the wider landscape.
Once the Heritage Trail reaches the church, the information board there is much better. Visitors enter the church grounds armed with knowledge about its features and significance. (St Magdalene's Church was built as a memorial, after the Battle of Shrewsbury, on or near to the mass grave of over 5,000 people killed fighting in it.)
A Missed Opportunity Upon Harry Hotspur's Ridge.
It is thought that Harry Hotspur positioned himself upon the ridge at the start of the battle. A single sentence informs the reader of this on the final information stand there. The rest of the board explains the Mediaeval ridge and furrow system of farming. The illustrations bear no relation to the modern landscape, which seems like a missed opportunity to contextualise the historical battlefield within it.
While it is true that the centuries have drastically altered the agricultural scene, the near horizon is ringed with fixed points, like the Long Mynd, Stiperstones and the Welsh Clwydian mountain range. There is also a clear view across the battlefield. An artist's impression of how it would have looked in 1403, using the topography of the horizon to help fix the wider landscape, would be very effective on Hotspur's Ridge.
Meanwhile, the information about Mediaeval strip farming might be better placed three fields away, where the ridge and furrows have been preserved. There is currently no board there drawing visitor attention to this.
A Pleasant Walk Around the Battlefield 1403 Heritage Trail.
Even on a dismal day, the walk was engaging, with some wonderful scenery, both in the distance and close by. The hedgerows were vibrant with wildlife and a wide variety of foliage. Some of the trees appeared centuries old. I returned to my car glad that I had visited.
However, there was one last rub. On the way out, there were signs, entirely absent on the road in, which directed tourists to the Battlefield 1403 Heritage Centre further along the A49. It had not been mentioned on any of the information boards. There is a visitor's centre, with an exhibition to contextualise the battlefield; alongside an extensive farm shop, cafe and toilet facilities. Staff here also hold the key to unlock the door of St Magdalene's Church.
For those unfamiliar with the history of the Battle of Shrewsbury, ignore the roadsigns to the battlefield and carry on at the roundabout. Once across it, there are signs to the Heritage Centre. There is also free carparking at the centre and access, along the road to the church, to the Battlefield 1403 Heritage Trail.
Sources:
- Battlefield 1403.
- Personal visit to the Battlefield 1403 Heritage Trail.
- Shropshire Tourism: Battlefield Heritage Site.
Jo Harrington - Jo has a BA (Hons) in History and Philosophy and a MA in History. She has a book published on the history of Wicca.
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